The Craft

At 3105, craft techniques are chosen for what they do to the garment — how they shape it, finish it, or give it structure. Each technique is worked by hand. This page documents the methods used across our collections and will evolve as new techniques are introduced.

Craft 01

Smocking

A hand embroidery technique that gathers fabric into regular pleats and holds them in place with stitching worked across the surface. The fabric is pre-pleated into even folds, then stitched by hand in a repeating pattern — honeycomb, cable, or wave that locks each pleat in position.

At 3105, we use smocking to control volume at a specific point in a garment. The gather creates fullness below it and structure above. The embroidery is visible on the outside; the technique is the surface detail.

CRAFT 02

Pintucks

Narrow folds of fabric stitched flat along their length, worked in close parallel rows across a panel of cloth. Each tuck is folded, pinned, and stitched at a consistent width typically 2-5mm, and the rows are spaced evenly, creating a structured, ridged texture across the surface.

At 3105, we use pintucks to add surface texture and quiet precision to a panel of handspun cotton. On a cloth that is naturally uneven in texture, the regularity of the pintucks creates a considered contrast — structured detail on a fabric that is naturally irregular in texture.

Craft 03

Blanket Stitch

A hand stitch worked along the edge of a fabric to secure and finish it, forming a series of visible loops along the border. The needle passes through the fabric at a set distance from the edge, looping the thread around the border with each stitch.

At 3105, blanket stitch is used as an edge finish that is meant to be seen. Worked in a contrasting thread along hems, necklines, and front edges, it is a traditional technique used deliberately, as a statement about how the garment is finished.

craft 04

Quilting

A technique that stitches two or more layers of fabric together with running stitches worked across the surface in a repeating pattern. A top layer, a second layer of cloth, and a backing are aligned and held together with rows of stitching — the pattern visible on both sides.

At 3105, we use quilting to add body and warmth to handspun cotton. The stitching follows the natural grid of the woven cloth beneath it — the lines of the quilt and the lines of the weave align.

CRAFT 05

Coconut Buttons

Buttons cut and finished from coconut shell — a natural, biodegradable fastening. Each button is cut from the hard inner shell of a coconut, sanded, and drilled. The shell varies in colour and grain — no two buttons are identical. They deepen in tone with wear and age well over time.

Coconut buttons are used across many 3105 pieces. We chose them because they are natural, specific, and consistent with the material language of the brand. They are a considered decision about what a garment is made of, down to the last detail.

Every technique listed here is worked by hand, in small batches, in collaboration with skilled artisans.